Background
Between Monday, February 27th, 2023 and Wednesday, March 1st, 2023 I hiked the Rakiura Track on New Zealand's Stewart Island. The standard track is 20 miles (32 km) and typically done over 3-days. In my case, with all the side trips, I went 34 miles in 3-days.
The word "rakuira" translates to "glowing skies" in the Māori language. It is a fitting word as Stewart Island is not only a dark sky sanctuary but a spot to view the auroa.
Itinerary
- Saturday, February 25th, 2023
- 10AM - I took off from the Invercargill airport. My plane was booked through Stewart Island Flights. There was a 15kg baggage limit. I left my van in their parking lot.
- 10:21AM - I arrived at the Ryans Creek airport
- 10:30AM - I arrived in the town of Oban by a van which picked me up from the airport. From here I wondered around the town.
- 11:50AM - I checked into Stewart Island Backpackers. Due to limited availability, I stayed in my tent until starting the trip on Monday. Here there were showers and a common cooking area. The town of Oban had a small grocery store (Four Square) which I could use to get food. Due to the weight limits on the plane, I had to rely on the grocery store for all food.
- Sunday, February 26th, 2023
- 8:45AM - I took a trip to Ulva Island
- 2:20PM - I rented an electric bike to explore from Stewart Island Electric Bikes
- 9:45PM - I went searching for a kiwi through Beaks and Feathers
- Monday, February 27th, 2023
- 11AM - I began hiking. I took a different route than the official Rakiura route which went along the coast because I had a lot of time to get to Port Williams
- 11:41AM - I reached Sarah Cove
- 11:57AM - I reached Dead Man Beach
- 2:05PM - I arrived at Little River's beach
- 3:46PM - I had made it to Port William, where I camped for the night
- 10:42PM - While searching for kiwis, I spotted the Aurora Australis (Southern Lights)
- Tuesday, February 28th, 2023
- 9:15AM - I started hiking from Port William
- 11:22AM - I arrived at some old lumber machine
- 3PM - I arrived at North Arm Campground around. From here, at the low tide, I went to collect mussels which I boiled
- 3:56PM - I ate mussels which I cooked
- 11:43PM - I saw a kiwi while quietly looking for it using my red light
- Wednesday, March 1st, 2023
- Before 8AM - I started hiking from North Arm Campground
- 10:03AM - I arrived at Kaipipi Bay
- 10:49AM - I continued off route to the Fern Gully Track
- 11:06AM - I reached the end of the Fern Gully Track
- 11:50AM - I proceeded on the Ryans Creek Track to Halfmoon Bay.
- 2:07PM - I was at Voe Bay
- 2:31PM - I continued off of Thule Road through Traill Park
- 2:54PM - I had returned back to the Stewart Island Backpackers campground
- Thursday, March 2nd, 2023
- 10:30AM - I departed Stewart Island through Stewart Island Flights, back to Invercargill
Additional Details
The weather can change at anytime, it's important to prepare for rain and cold weather. Bookings are required for all the campgrounds in advance. The campsites had both huts and tent space.
Much of the trail was through the trees and was very muddy. I am glad I went the futher distance on the first day along the coastline. Otherwise I would have spent much of the first day along a road.
I was lucky to see the Southern Lights. It can be viewed closer to the equinox in dark places far enough south during certain years. It is important to monitor this, however. Stewart Island is known for its kiwi bird population, some campsites offer the ability to see the birds and the rangers at these campsites known best when and where to look.
Water along the trail and at campsites must be filtered before drinking.
It's important to store your food in your tent, as opossums will easily rip open bags that are no attended.
It's possible to get to Stewart Island on a ferry, in addition to a plane. It takes longer but there are fewer limitations on what you can bring on board.
Camping gas is sold at the DOC ranger building. You cannot bring it on the plane. Stewart Island Backpackers kitchen area had a lot of extra gas cans people had left so it wasn't necessary to buy one as many were left for free.
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